How to Sew Curtains
Custom curtains fit your window better than anything off the shelf, and they are one of the most forgiving projects for a new sewer. This guide walks through measuring, calculating fullness, and building hems that make panels fall in soft, even folds.
Materials
- Curtain fabric, about 2.5 times the rod width
- Matching all-purpose thread
- Curtain rod and brackets
- Iron-on hem tape (optional)
- Curtain weights (optional)
Tools
- Tape measure
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Iron and pressing board
- Sewing machine with a straight stitch
- Pins or clips
Steps
- 01
Measure the window
Measure the width of your curtain rod, not the window frame, and decide on the finished drop from the rod down to where you want the hem to sit. Write both numbers down before you buy anything, because the fabric is cut to these figures plus allowances.
- 02
Work out the fullness
Multiply the rod width by 2.5 for a full, gathered look, or by 2 for a flatter panel. For a 60 inch rod that means 150 inches of flat fabric, usually split into two panels 75 inches wide each.
- 03
Cut with allowances
Add 4 inches to each panel width for 1 inch double-fold side hems, and 9 inches to the drop for a 4 inch double-fold bottom hem plus a 1 inch top allowance. Cut on grain so the panels hang square.
- 04
Sew the side hems
Press a 1 inch fold down each long side, then fold it again and press. Stitch close to the inner fold with a 3.5 mm straight stitch, keeping the hem the same width from top to bottom so the panel does not twist.
- 05
Sew the bottom hem
Turn up 4 inches at the lower edge, fold the raw edge under by 1 inch, and press. Stitch along the fold and again 1/4 inch from the top of the hem to create a pocket you can weight, which helps the curtain drop straight.
- 06
Form the rod pocket
Fold the top edge down 1 inch and press, then fold down 3 inches more and stitch along the lower fold. Slide the rod through the channel and hang the panel right away so the fabric begins to relax into folds.
- 07
Train the folds
Gather the panel into even pleats by hand and leave it hanging for two or three days. Light steam from the back helps the folds set and removes the creases left by the fabric bolt.
Header styles and what they do
A rod pocket is the simplest header: the panel is folded over the rod and gathers as it hangs. It is quick to sew, but all the fullness bunches at the rod, so the fabric looks full at the top and flat further down.
Pleat tape, eyelets and tab tops distribute fullness differently. Tape produces regular, formal pleats and is the usual choice for living rooms; eyelets slide easily and stack neatly when the curtain is pulled open; tabs give a casual even fold and suit lightweight fabric best.
Fullness: how much fabric a window really needs
Fullness is the ratio between the flat width of the fabric and the width of the rod. About 2.5 times gives generous gathered folds, 2 times looks flatter and more modern, and below roughly 1.5 the panel looks stretched and the folds disappear.
Heavy fabric needs less fullness because its own weight forms folds, while sheers and light cotton need more. A velvet or a blackout-lined panel can look full at 2 times, where a voile may want closer to 3.
Lining, interlining and weights
Lining protects the face fabric from sunlight and gives a curtain a fuller, more finished look from the street. Interlining, a layer of flannel or bump between face and lining, adds insulation and body, and it is what makes a curtain read as expensive.
Weights sewn into the bottom hem help the panel drop straight and stop the corners curling. They matter most on light fabrics and on panels that are opened and closed daily.
Measuring the drop for your rod type
Measure the drop from the point where the curtain will actually hang, whether that is the top of the rod, the bottom of the rings or the track, not from the window frame. Measuring from the wrong reference point is how a panel finishes several centimetres off.
For floor-length curtains, decide whether they should just clear the floor, touch it, or break slightly. Account for the brackets and rings in the calculation, and add the hem allowance on top of the finished drop.
Hanging, training and care
Hang the panels as soon as they are finished, because folds set into fabric faster on a hanging curtain than on one folded flat. Gather the pleats evenly by hand and steam from the back to help them hold.
Check the care instructions before buying, since many curtain fabrics are dry-clean only or shrink noticeably. A washable lining is worth seeking out if the curtains will be cleaned at home, because the face and lining need to shrink at the same rate.
Frequently asked questions
- How much wider than the window should curtains be?
- Measure the rod rather than the window, and run the rod about 15 to 20 cm beyond the frame on each side so the panels can be pulled clear of the glass. Multiply that rod width by your chosen fullness ratio to get the flat fabric width.
- Should curtains touch the floor?
- It is a matter of taste: just clearing the floor, touching it, or breaking slightly all look deliberate. Whichever you choose, keep it consistent across every panel in the room, since a difference of a centimetre is noticeable.
- Can I make curtains without lining?
- Yes. Unlined curtains are quicker to make and suit casual rooms and lightweight fabrics. Lining adds body, slows fading and gives a neater appearance from outside, so it is more a choice about the room than about skill.
- Do I need to prewash curtain fabric?
- It depends on the fabric. If it is washable and you intend to wash the curtains at home, prewash and dry it to allow for shrinkage. Dry-clean-only fabrics are usually not prewashed.