How to Sew a Simple Skirt
A simple A-line skirt is the ideal first garment project: it needs only two pattern pieces, it fits forgivingly, and it has no zips or buttonholes to wrestle with. In one afternoon you can take your measurements, cut the fabric and finish a skirt you will genuinely wear.
Materials
- 1.5 m of medium-weight cotton, linen or twill (150 cm wide)
- 3.5 cm wide elastic, cut to waist measurement minus 5 cm
- Matching all-purpose polyester thread
- Lightweight fusible interfacing for the waistband (optional)
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Fabric scissors and a rotary cutter
- Measuring tape and clear ruler
- Pins or sewing clips
- Iron and pressing board
Steps
- 01
Measure and draft
Measure your natural waist, the widest part of your hips and the length you want from waist to hem. Draft an A-line panel by marking half your hip measurement plus 1.5 cm seam allowance at the top and widening to double that at the hem, then cut two mirrored panels.
- 02
Cut the fabric
Pre-wash and press the fabric, then fold it selvedge to selvedge with the grain running parallel to the side seams. Cut two panels and add a 4 cm deep hem allowance, marking the waistline and both side seams with tailor's chalk.
- 03
Sew the side seams
Pin the panels right sides together along both side seams and stitch with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Press the seams open, then finish the raw edges with a zigzag or overlock stitch so the skirt does not fray in the wash.
- 04
Build the waistband casing
Fold the top edge 1 cm to the wrong side and press, then fold it down a further 3.5 cm to create the elastic channel. Stitch close to the lower fold all the way around, leaving a 5 cm gap at the centre back for threading.
- 05
Thread the elastic
Cut the elastic to your waist measurement minus 5 cm and feed it through the casing with a safety pin. Overlap the ends by 2 cm and stitch them firmly, then try the skirt on before you close the gap.
- 06
Hem and press
Try the skirt on with the shoes you will wear and mark the finished length with chalk. Trim the hem to 4 cm, press the fold up and stitch a narrow double-fold hem, keeping the stitching parallel to the fold.
Choosing a fabric that behaves
A simple skirt lives or dies by drape. Medium-weight cotton, linen, cotton twill and light wool blends press well and hold an A-line shape, while stiff quilting cotton makes the hem flare like a bell and slippery viscose is hard to control on a first project.
Pre-wash and dry the fabric the way you intend to wash the finished skirt. Natural fibres can shrink by several percent, and a skirt cut before washing may finish shorter than the length you planned.
Measurements, ease and length
Measure the natural waist, the widest part of the hips and the finished length you want. Build in ease: an elastic waist needs roughly 5 cm of slack over the hip measurement so it can be pulled on, while a fitted waistband needs about 2 cm.
Choose the length while wearing the shoes you will wear with the skirt. A hem that looks right in bare feet can sit above the knee once a heel is added, and re-hemming a shaped hem is much more work than checking first.
Elastic waist or fitted waistband
An elastic casing is the fastest finish and forgiving of small measuring errors, which makes it the natural choice for a first skirt. A fitted waistband sits closer to the body but needs a zip, an interfaced band and more accurate measuring.
Either way, support the waistband area with interfacing or a firm fabric strip. A waistband takes the stress of dressing and sitting, and without support the top edge will stretch out of shape over time.
Finishing the inside
Finish the side seam allowances with a zigzag, an overlock or a French seam. A raw edge that frays in the wash can undo an otherwise tidy skirt, and French seams give the cleanest result on light cotton.
Use a narrow double-fold hem stitched about 6 mm from the fold. A deep hem on a flared skirt can be eased in with a row of long stitches and a good press, but too much fullness will show as a rippled edge.
Fit adjustments worth knowing
If the skirt hangs lower at the back than at the front, the waistline needs a swayback adjustment rather than a shorter hem. Take a small horizontal tuck out of the back waistband area and blend it into the sides.
Let the finished skirt hang for a day before checking the hem, because loosely woven and bias-cut fabrics settle downward. A hem trimmed straight off the machine can look uneven by the next morning.
Frequently asked questions
- How much fabric do I need for a simple skirt?
- A common rule of thumb is one skirt length plus about 20 cm for a knee-length A-line in a standard-width fabric, and two lengths if the fabric is narrow or you want a fuller shape. Compare your drafted pieces against the fabric width before buying.
- Do I need a zip for an elastic waist skirt?
- No. The elastic casing is the closure, provided the hip measurement plus ease will pass over your hips. That forgiveness is exactly why the elastic version makes an easier first project.
- How deep should the hem allowance be?
- About 4 cm works well for a double-fold hem on a skirt. Deeper hems hang better in a firm fabric but are harder to ease evenly around a curved or flared edge.