How to Hem Trousers
Taking up a pair of trousers is the most common alteration of all, and it is well within reach of a home sewist with a basic machine. A clean hem rescues a pair that has been sitting in the wardrobe because it drags on the floor or pools over your shoes.
Materials
- Matching all-purpose thread
- Tailor's chalk or a washable fabric marker
- Extra-fine pins
- Fusible hem tape (optional)
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Iron and pressing cloth
- Tape measure and hem gauge
- Seam ripper
Steps
- 01
Mark the finished length
Wear the trousers with the shoes you plan to pair them with and stand on a hard floor. Have a helper pin the hem where you want the finished edge to fall, usually a slight break just touching the top of the shoe. Mark all the way around with pins or tailor's chalk.
- 02
Add hem allowance and cut
Measure the distance from the existing hem up to your pin line, then mark a new cutting line that adds the hem allowance back on. For a 3 cm finished hem you need to add roughly 4 cm so there is enough fabric to fold twice.
- 03
Finish the raw edge
Serge or zigzag the cut edge so the fabric does not fray through repeated washing. Press the edge flat before you start folding, since a crisp start makes the whole hem easier to control.
- 04
Fold and press the hem
Fold the raw edge up by about 1 cm and press, then fold again by the depth of your finished hem and pin every few centimetres. Steam the fold so it holds its shape and you can remove most of the pins.
- 05
Stitch the hem
For a nearly invisible finish, use a blind hem stitch and catch only one or two threads of the garment side. If you prefer a topstitched look, sew a straight line 6 mm from the folded edge with matching thread.
- 06
Give it a final press
Press the finished hem from the inside with a little steam, using a pressing cloth on delicate fabrics. Let the trousers hang for a few hours before wearing so the fabric settles and the hem lies flat.
Hem depth and the break you choose
Most trousers look right with the hem just touching the top of the shoe, often called a slight break. A full break folds fabric over the shoe and a no-break hem stops just above it, which generally suits narrow, tapered legs.
Deeper hems hang better because the extra weight pulls the hem edge down, but they use more fabric and are harder to press on a tapered leg. Around 3 to 4 cm of finished hem is a practical compromise for most trousers.
Blind hem, machine hem or hand slip stitch
A blind hem stitch catches one or two threads of the garment and is almost invisible from the outside. A straight topstitch about 6 mm from the fold is quicker and stronger, and reads as a deliberate finish on casual trousers and jeans.
A hand slip stitch is the slowest option and the most invisible, and it is the traditional choice on wool trousers and anything with a sharply pressed crease.
Tapered legs, wide legs and hem angles
On a tapered leg the original hem line is not parallel to the new cut line, so the fold comes out too wide at the inside leg and too narrow at the outside. Mark the new length all the way round while the trousers are on before you cut anything.
On wide or flared legs the circumference at the new hem is larger than the old one, so the existing hem allowance may no longer be wide enough to fold twice. Keep the original hem depth if you can, or add a shaped facing strip.
Fabric-specific points
Stretch and knit trousers need a stitch that can stretch with the fabric, such as a narrow zigzag or a blind hem with a slight zigzag. Ordinary straight stitching cracks when the fabric is pulled over a shoe.
Polyester and wrinkle-resistant blends hold a press beautifully but also mark easily, so use a pressing cloth and never let the iron rest in one place. Corduroy and velvet need a light touch and something soft underneath so the pile is not flattened.
Checking the length and the final press
Measure both legs from the same reference point, such as the waistband, and confirm the length standing on a hard floor. Comparing one leg against the other by eye simply carries the first error through to the second.
Hang the trousers for a few hours before the final press. The fabric relaxes downward under its own weight, and pressing after it has settled is what keeps the hem flat rather than rippled.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I hem trousers without a sewing machine?
- Yes. A hand slip stitch or a hand-worked blind hem gives a nearly invisible result and is the traditional finish on wool trousers. It takes longer but needs only a needle, matching thread, pins and an iron.
- How much fabric should I leave below the new fold line?
- Roughly the finished hem depth plus 1 cm, so the edge can be folded twice. For a 3 cm finished hem, leave about 4 cm before trimming.
- Should I hem trousers before or after washing them?
- Most tailors suggest washing first. Cotton and wool blends commonly settle after the first wash, so hemming afterwards usually avoids a second alteration.
- Does fusible hem tape hold permanently?
- It holds well on stable fabrics and saves time, but it can lift after repeated hot washes and is difficult to remove cleanly. It is best used on hems that are washed rarely, or as a temporary fix before stitching.