How to Sew a Backstitch
Backstitch is the workhorse outline stitch of hand embroidery: a single unbroken line that holds sharp corners and reads clearly from across a room. Reach for it whenever the outline carries the drawing, such as lettering, borders and simple motifs.
Materials
- Light or medium-weight cotton fabric
- Six-strand embroidery floss
- Water-soluble marking pen or chalk pencil
- A printed or hand-drawn motif
Tools
- 6-10 cm embroidery hoop
- Embroidery needle, size 7-9
- Small sharp embroidery scissors
Steps
- 01
Transfer the Motif
Trace the design onto your fabric with a water-soluble pen or a fine chalk pencil. Keep the drawn line light and narrow, about 1 mm wide, so one or two strands of floss will cover it completely.
- 02
Anchor the Thread
Bring the needle up from the back at the start of the line and leave a 2 cm tail on the wrong side. Work the first few stitches straight over that tail so the thread is held without a knot.
- 03
Take the First Stitch Forward
Insert the needle one stitch length ahead, roughly 2 to 3 mm, and pull it through to the back. Keep the floss flat rather than twisted so the finished line stays smooth.
- 04
Come Back to Meet the Line
Bring the needle up a full stitch length ahead of where the last stitch ended, then slide it back down into that same end hole. Each new stitch takes a step forward and a half step back, sharing the hole, which is what closes the line.
- 05
Keep the Stitches Even
Match every stitch to the one before it in length and tension. Slightly loose is better than tight; if the fabric starts to pucker, you are pulling the floss too hard.
- 06
Turn Corners and Curves
For a sharp corner, stop the last stitch exactly on the corner point and begin the next leg from the same hole. On curves, shorten the stitches to about 1.5 mm so the line bends smoothly instead of faceting.
- 07
Finish Off the Line
After the final stitch, take the needle to the back and run it under four or five existing stitches. Trim the tail close to the fabric without nicking the embroidery itself.
Floss, needle and hoop setup
Separate the six-strand floss and recombine only the strands you need, rather than threading all six. A needle with a large enough eye for the strand count lets the floss lie flat instead of twisting, which is most of the difference between a smooth outline and a lumpy one.
Hoop the fabric so it is taut like a drum, but not so tight that the weave distorts. A hoop that is too small for the motif means constant repositioning, which is how outlines end up slightly misaligned at the joins.
Choosing the line weight
One strand gives the finest line and suits small lettering and details under about a centimetre. Two strands is the general-purpose weight for lettering and borders; three or more thickens the line and blurs tight curves.
Match the line weight to the size of the motif rather than to personal preference alone. A heavy outline around a small shape closes it up visually, while a single strand on a large motif disappears from any distance.
Curves, corners and tight details
Shorten the stitches as a curve tightens, down to about 1.5 mm, so the line bends smoothly instead of faceting. On a sharp corner, finish the last stitch exactly on the point and start the next leg from the same hole so the corner stays crisp.
Where two lines meet, decide which one runs on top before you stitch, and keep that order consistent across the motif. Overlaps that alternate look untidy even when every individual stitch is perfectly even.
Backstitch, stem stitch or split stitch
Stem stitch produces a rope-like twist and is often preferred for long flowing curves, because the twist hides small irregularities. Backstitch gives a firmer, more graphic line and holds lettering legibly.
Split stitch gives a very fine, unbroken line and makes an excellent base for satin filling, since the padded edge grips the filling stitches. Many embroiderers use backstitch for outlines and switch to stem stitch where a curve needs to look soft.
Washing, pressing and framing
Press finished embroidery face down on a folded towel, using a little steam and no pressure, so the stitches stay raised. Pressing from the front flattens the line and dulls the floss.
Wash only if you must, in cool water with a mild soap, and rinse thoroughly before drying flat. For framing, lace the fabric over an acid-free board rather than gluing it, so the work can be removed later without damage.
Frequently asked questions
- How many strands of floss should I use for embroidery lettering?
- Two strands is the usual choice for readable lettering, with one strand for very small text and three for large bold letters. More strands mean a heavier line that can close up the counters of small letters.
- Should I knot embroidery thread at the end?
- Generally no. Knots create bumps that show on the right side and are hard to hide under a hoop. Start and finish by running the tail under existing stitches on the back.
- Why does my outline look bumpy?
- Usually uneven stitch length, floss that has twisted as it was pulled, or tension that is too tight. Letting the needle hang occasionally to unwind the floss and keeping every stitch the same length solves most of it.
- Can I embroider without a hoop?
- It is possible on a firm, stable fabric, but the weave moves as you stitch and the line is harder to keep even. A hoop holds the cloth flat and is worth using on nearly every project.